Building an Opteron, Part 3: Assembling the Hardware
Monday, January 31st, 2005Getting the hardware all together and working was the worst part of building the Opteron server. I started with all eBay parts, one of which was bad. However, I had no idea which part was broken, and over the course of a week, I basically purchased a duplicate of each part until I got a working set, then returned the rest. Here’s what I learned:
Opteron heatsinks are very, very scary to attach. A metal plate and mounting bracket sandwich the motherboard and are bolted together. Then you clip the heat sink to the bracket and flip this lever to apply quite a lot of pressure between the heatsink and the chip, and clip the lever to the bracket to keep it from springing back. Thankfully the Opteron has a metal casing on top which contacts the heatsink, so applying all this force seems a little less crazy than the Athlon XP CPUs that actually have the silicon exposed. Still, there was some sweating. Little did I know that I would remove and reattach that heatsink a dozen times while moving CPUs during troubleshooting.
Don’t necessarily believe your motherboard manual. At one point I had both the RioWorks HDAMA and the Tyan K8W motherboards in front of me. The HDAMA uses a Phoenix BIOS which produces a “four digit” beep code out of quick beeps followed by long pauses. I received a beep code of 1-1-1-1 when I put my (unknown to me at the time) defective RAM in. According to every document I could find, that beep code does not exist. Moreover, I got the same beep code without any RAM in the system at all. This incorrectly led me to believe the entire motherboard was hosed. No so–that board is now happily humming away in the corner of my apartment.
The K8W motherboard was acquired to figure out if the HDAMA was toast. I put the defective DIMM into it, and there were no beeps at all. None. I take the memory out, still no beeps. Now I’m thinking, “Oh crap. The CPU must be broken.” Many permutations later, I discover empirically that the K8W will not even beep unless there are two DIMMs present. The manual claims that the motherboard supports both single and double channel memory configurations, but I was unable to even get a beep, much less a full POST, with a known good CPU and one good DIMM. I could get the “your memory is broken” beep code if I put the working DIMM in with the defective one, however. Very annoying.
Eventually I figured out it was the RAM that was bad (after trying just the working DIMM by itself in the HDAMA mobo) and everything fell into place. My confusion about the beep codes on these motherboards was leading me to believe that I had two simultaneous failures, or I was cursed, or something. I was starting to lose faith in rational problem solving. The moral of the story is: Don’t expect more accurate documentation just because your motherboard costs more than the cheap stuff you usually buy.
Oh, and somewhere along the way, I picked up an Antec True550 EPS12V PSU. I highly recommend it. It is much quieter than the first EPS12V power supply I got (going up for sale on eBay today) and has a motherboard connector so you can monitor its speed. It will also control the speed of your other case fans, if you prefer, to keep the noise down.
